Hi everyone. It's been a bit quiet on the blog lately. What are you all up to? I'm licking my wounds after a big surfing accident on the weekend. I was waiting out the back resting and a freak wave came that looked surfable. It was about 7 foot high (which means the front of the wave was about two storeys high, looked like a terrace house). I'm not that fit at the moment so I was happy to paddle next to it and watch it break on its own. But I was the only one in the right spot and everyone in the surf started yelling, "Do it!", "Woo", etc. So I just started paddling without really looking at the wave by the time it caught up it was breaking. I tried to take off and grab the rail of my board at the same time but I didn't have enough speed to make it down the wave. It should have looked like this:
But it looked more like this:
I landed on my surfboard fins in one foot of water and got held under for about two waves. It's very pretty under there. You keep your eyes open in big waves, even under water. And when I finally surfaced my arm was flapping around like a tennis ball in a sock. My friend Sam was in the perfect spot to watch me get tubed but instead reports that everyone in the break (around 50 people) went "AAhhhhhhhrrrrgggggg", in unison when I hit the reef.
The other cool news is that I am shooting a film clip for
the paper scissors this weekend. I'm really nervous about how it is going to turn out. Fingers crossed.
Don't ask about the rest of my life. If it was going well I would have told you about it.
But it looked more like this:
I landed on my surfboard fins in one foot of water and got held under for about two waves. It's very pretty under there. You keep your eyes open in big waves, even under water. And when I finally surfaced my arm was flapping around like a tennis ball in a sock. My friend Sam was in the perfect spot to watch me get tubed but instead reports that everyone in the break (around 50 people) went "AAhhhhhhhrrrrgggggg", in unison when I hit the reef.
3 comments:
Damn, I was going to post that second picture. It was on the back of The Australian today in on the inside-back cover of The Age. I know why they printed it: imagine what he was thinking during the free-fall. Typical, isn't it, Adam, that you have a good wipe-out story on the day when the world sees photographic evidence of possibly the best ever. Pity it didn't happen to you yesterday.
Wow that is a great picture, I love how he has gone into a spread-eagle pose as if he is willing himself to fly! Geez thatd be an experience...
if your friends told you to ride a suicidal wave would you do it?....
peer pressure - i love it.
get well soon Ads and good luck with the film clip! Do we get a sneak peak before it comes out?
k8
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